The first-ever Textile Circularity Conference, organized by the Bureau of International Recycling (BIR) on September 17, 2024, in Brussels, emphasized a pivotal moment for the used textile market, urging collaboration and innovation to establish a truly global circular economy.

Speakers at the event, attended by key stakeholders, rejected claims that 40% of clothing exports are only fit for landfill. Representatives from Ghana, Kenya, and Uganda presented evidence showing that the actual figure is much lower, arguing that African businesses would not import textiles they cannot use. They criticized misleading media narratives, asserting that such misconceptions hinder the potential for a sustainable textile trade.

President Susie Burrage OBE highlighted the need for improved sorting, reuse, and recycling practices to foster a circular economy, stating, “The narrative around end-of-life textiles is becoming increasingly tangled.” She called for a unified approach to tackle challenges facing the industry.

African representatives, including Marlvin Owusu from Ghana and Teresiah Wairimu from Kenya, shared their perspectives on the misconceptions surrounding second-hand clothing. Owusu emphasized that independent research indicates that waste from imported textiles in Ghana is only up to 5%, while Wairimu affirmed that Kenya only imports sorted clothing, representing a sustainable trade model.

The conference also addressed the impact of EU regulations on the textile market and the challenges posed by fast fashion. Participants discussed emerging technologies in textile recycling, including chemical recycling, which transforms non-rewearable textiles into new products.

BIR’s director general, Arnaud Brunet, announced plans for future events to further the circularity dialogue, inviting countries like Ghana and Pakistan to join BIR and strengthen the global textile recycling network. With a growing focus on sustainability, the conference marked a significant step toward realizing a circular economy in textiles.